The breezy fishing village of ALERT BAY , on Cormorant Island, is
reached by numerous daily ferries from Port McNeill just 8km away (foot
passenger $5.50 return, car $13.75). The fifty-minute crossing in the
migrating season provides a good chance of seeing whales en route.
Despite the predominance of the non-native industries (mainly fish
processing), half the population of the island are native 'Namgis, and a
visit here offers the opportunity to get to grips with something of
their history and to meet those who are keeping something of the old
traditions alive. Be sure to have prebooked accommodation before heading
out here in high season. The infocentre (June-Sept daily; Oct-May Mon-Fri;
tel 974-5024, info@alertbay.com ) is at 116 Fir St to your right as you
come off the ferry. Also off to the right from the terminal are the
totems of a 'Namgis Burial Ground: you're asked to view from a
respectful distance.
Bear left from the terminal out of the main part of the village to reach
the excellent U'Mista Cultural Centre on Front Street (mid-May to early
Sept daily 9am-5pm; Oct to mid-May Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; $5.35; tel
974-5403), a modern building based on old models, which houses a
collection of potlatch items and artefacts. It also shows a couple of
award-winning films, and you might also come across local kids being
taught native languages, songs and dances. More local artefacts are on
show in the library and small museum, open most summer afternoons, at
199 Fir St. For years the village also claimed the world's tallest fully
carved totem pole (other contenders, say knowing villagers, are all pole
and no carving), though much to local chagrin Victoria raised a pole in
1994 that The Guinness Book of Records has recognized as 2.1m taller.
Also worth a look is the wildlife and weird swamp habitat at Gator
Gardens behind the bay, accessible via several trails and boardwalks.
Most people come over for the day, but accommodation options include:
the six-room Orca Inn , 291 Fir St, ten-minutes' walk from the ferry
terminal (tel 974-5322 or 1-800/672-2466; $40-60), with steak and
seafood restaurant and café overlooking Broughton Strait and the sea;
the Ocean View Cabins , 390 Poplar St, 1km from the ferry terminal
overlooking Mitchell Bay (tel 974-5457; $60-80); the Bayside Inn Hotel ,
overlooking the harbour, at 81 Fir St (tel 974-5857; $40-60); and the
23-site Alert Bay Camping and Trailer Park on Alder Road (tel 974-5213,
www.alertbay.com ; $10-15). |
