The road into the western sector of BAIE-COMEAU may be a fairly drab
landscape of strip malls, but it's nothing compared to the eastern
sector, where a monstrous newsprint mill plant churns out poisonous
emissions 24 hours a day. It was established in 1936 by Colonel Robert
R. McCormick, the publisher of the Chicago Tribune , and Baie-Comeau has
done nothing but boom ever since - with a population of 26,000, it
dwarfs the communities around it. There's no real reason to hang around
here, but while waiting for a northward bus or a ferry to Gaspé's Matane
you might stroll through the quartier Sainte-Amélie in the eastern
Marquette sector, where the streets are lined by grand houses dating
from the 1930s. The Église Sainte-Amélie , 37 ave Marquette (daily: June
to mid-Sept 9am-6pm; mid-Sept to May 10am-5pm; free), is worth a quick
peek for its frescoes and stained-glass windows, designed by the Italian
artist Guido Nincheri.
There's a seasonal tourist information office on the western edge of
town at 3503 boul Laflèche (June-Aug daily 8am-8pm). Buses terminate at
212 boul Lasalle (tel 296-6921); the departure point for the car ferry
to Matane is beyond the eastern end of boul Lasalle on rue Cartier (Jan-March:
4 per week; April-Dec: 1-2 daily; 2hr 20min; $11.85 single, cars $28.35;
tel 294-8593 or 1-877/562-6560).
Accommodation is available at the rambling stone hotel Le Manoir , 8
Cabot (tel 296-3391 or 1-800/463-8567; $80-100), which overlooks the St
Lawrence. Less expensive motels are along boul Lasalle; try the modern
Hôtel-Motel La Caravelle , at no. 202 (tel 296-4986 or 1-800/463-4986;
$60-80). The cheapest place in town is Motel Lasalle , 196 boul Lasalle
(tel 296-6601; $40-60) but for a few dollars more, there are a few B&Bs
: Gîte au vieux quart-ier , 57 rue Champlain (tel 294-2614; $40-60) is
the only one in the older Marquette area. For camping , Camping Manic 2
at km24 on Hwy 389 (tel 296-3951 or 2810) has six-person sites for $15.
The hotel, Le Manoir is pricey for eating but has an excellent
reputation. For down-to-earth eats, Le 3 Barils , 200 boul Lasalle, is
convenient, and Brasserie Le Boucannier , in the western sector at 720
boul Laflèche, has surf and turf and pizza. If you're desperate for a
drink , Le Blues Bar , 48 place Lasalle, has a small terrace out back.
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