| BEAVER CREEK , Canada's westernmost settlement (pop. 145), is the
last stop before Alaska. Following concerted lobbying from its
inhabitants, however, it no longer houses the customs post - this has
been moved a couple of kilometres up the road in response to complaints
from the locals about the flashing lights and sirens that used to erupt
whenever a tourist forgot to stop. Though the border is open 24 hours a
day, you may have to stay here, particularly if you're catching the
Alaskon bus service from Skagway and Whitehorse, which stops overnight
at Beaver Creek on trans-Alaskan routes. The bus company can book you
into the large and expensive Westmark Inn (tel 862-7501 or
1-800/544-0970, www.westmarkhotels.com ; $125-175; May-Sept): if that's
too steep you've got the choice of arranging things for yourself at the
eccentric twenty-room Ida's Motel and Restaurant (tel 862-3227; $80-100;
summer 6am-2am, winter 8am-10pm), a distinctive building across the
highway or, failing that, at the 1202 Motor Inn (tel 862-7600; $80-100).
The Westmark has a large, serviced campsite ($20), though they're
happier to see RVs than backpackers (try free camping in the woods).
There's a good but small Yukon government-run site located 10km south at
the Snag Junction ($8; May-Oct). Also be warned that if US Customs take
against you or your rucksack, they can insist on seeing at least $400 or
so in cash, and won't be swayed by any number of credit cards. For full
details on border crossing, and what to expect on the other side, visit
the Yukon Visitor Information Centre (mid-May to early Sept daily
8am-8pm; tel 862-7321). |