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BERGERONNES

 
As accommodation fills up in Tadoussac in high season, you may wind up having to stay in the community of BERGERONNES , 22km along the road. The Centre d'Interprétation et d'Observation de Cap-de-Bon-Désir , 166 Hwy 138 (mid-June to mid-Oct daily 8am-8pm; $5), built around the Cap de Bon Désir lighthouse, has displays on the whale's life and a lookout post by a popular whale-feeding ground. Accommodation is available at Le Bergeronnette , 65 rue Principale (tel 232-6642 or 1-877/232-6605, www.bergeronnette.com ; $40-60; May-Oct) and there's a campsite , off the highway east of town, whose beautiful site has views over the St Lawrence: Camping Bon Désir (tel 232-6297) charges $19 for a pitch with a view, $17 without.



From LES ESCOUMINS there's a ferry to Trois-Pistoles across the St Lawrence (mid-May to mid-Oct 2-3 daily; 1hr 15min; $10.75 single, $27.50 for cars). In addition to whale-watching trips, the area is popular for diving , especially at night when the phosphorescence creates an eerie underwater landscape. Le Centre des Loisirs Marins , 41 rue des Pilotes (tel 233-2860; interpretive centre: 9.30-11am & 1.30-3.30pm; $5) is only worthwhile if you intend to dive (diving card required) or really fancy people in drysuits. At a dive shop downstairs you can rent a complete set of gear for $55 per day. If you want to eat , try the excellent burgers at Auberge Manoir Bellevue , 27 rue de l'Église, which also does a pricey table d'hôte for dinner and has comfortable rooms (tel 233-3325 or 1-888/233-3325; $80-100). The town's youth hostel , Auberge de la plongée , 118 rue St-Marcelin (tel 233-3289 or 1-800/375-3465, www.escoumins.com ; up to $40) is a bit shabby.
 

 
 

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