| Heading east from Trois-Pistoles, Hwy 132 crosses a comparatively
tedious landscape of fertile agricultural land, until it reaches the
rocky wooded hummocks of the shoreline's Parc du Bic . A naturalists'
paradise whose headlands push up tight against the river, it's possible
to see herds of grey seals, especially at dusk. The park has three short
hiking trails, a beach, a visitors' centre (mid-June to Sept daily
10am-5pm; free) and a campsite , Camping Bic (tel 736-4711; $16 a pitch
plus $4.35 administration charge; early June to early Sept). From late
June to early September, shuttle buses depart regularly from the
visitors' centre heading up to the highest peak, Pic Champlain ($5
return trip), and around the park (2hr; $14). You can also view the park
from a sea kayak from Rivi-Air Aventure (tel 736-5252; $30-60 per person).
Just beyond the park along Hwy 132, the elongated village of BIC ,
perched on a low ridge above its snout-shaped harbour, is a handsome
medley of old and modern architectures. Samuel de Champlain named the
place Pic (for peak), but the "P" morphed into a "B" instead. The
Auberge du Mange Grenouille , 148 rue Ste-Cécile (tel 736-5656; $40-60;
summer only), has a superb restaurant (reservations advised) and
attractively furnished double rooms . Aux Cormorants is a B&B nestled
along Pointe des Anglais facing onto the river (tel 736-8113; $40-60).
The bakery , Folles Farines , at 113 rue St-Jean Baptiste, has a wicked
selection of tasty breads, croissants and thin-crust pizzas. Up the hill
and facing the handsome church, Chez Saint-Pierre is a sunny bistro with
an imaginative menu and a terrace overlooking the town's rooftops (open
seven days a week in summer; weekends only rest of year).
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