| BONNE BAY , just along the coast from Rocky Harbour, lies at the
mouth of a great gash that slices inland from the Gulf of St Lawrence
framed by the severest of mountains. Most of the park's villages lie on
the shore of the fjord, and it's possible to drive right round, but you
have to take a long detour on Route 431, which branches off from Route
430 at Wiltondale, at the park's south entrance. Unfortunately, the
ferry, which connected with Woody Point across the bay and which
shortened the distance considerably, no longer runs. Minuscule WOODY
POINT has a pleasant guesthouse, the Victorian Manor (tel 453-2485,
www.grosmorne.com/victorianmanor ; $60-125), and the small and basic
Woody Point Youth Hostel (tel 453-7254; up to $40; May-Oct). If you want
to see the mountains from the water, tours of Bonne Bay are available
with Bontours (mid-June to early Sept daily 10am & 2pm; 2hr; $20; tel
458-2730 or 1-800/563-9887); boats depart from Government Wharf at
Norris Point.
The Lookout Trail (5km return) begins about 1km from Woody Point and has
the best panoramic views in the park. Heading further west from the
village along Route 431, it's 3km to the start of the Tablelands Hiking
Trail , a four-kilometre circular track that cuts across a forbidding
area of bare and barren rock. Another 8km along Route 431 leads to the
sixteen-kilometre loop of the Green Gardens Trail , which twists its way
to some secluded coves, caves and sea stacks and is equipped with three
primitive campsites (each $10 per night). Continuing down the road, it's
a further 4km to Trout River Pond , sandwiched by the yellowed bareness
of the Tablelands and the massive cliffs bordering the Gregory Plateau -
this is one of the places where you really notice the tremendous uplifts
of land caused by the collision of the North American and European
continents 450 million years ago. The views here are splendid and the
best way to see the lake is on the Tablelands Boat Tour (daily: mid- to
late June & early to mid-Sept 1pm; July & Aug 10am, 1pm & 4pm; 2hr; $25;
tel 451-2101). For accommodation , there are simple lodgings at Crocker
Cabins in Trout River (tel 451-3236; units $60-80; mid-May to mid-Sept).
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