| The area southeast of Rivière-du-Loup, along the Trans-Canada
Highway towards New Brunswick, is saved from mediocrity by the graceful
sweep of Lac Témiscouata , where a combination of lake, river, woods and
hills is adorned by a dazzling display of wild flowers in spring. The
Trans-Canada Highway offers glimpses of the lake, but it's Hwy 232 that
tracks along the prettiest stretches, leaving the main road at the
sprawling lakeside village of CABANO . Aside from Fort Ingall (June-Sept
daily 9.30am-6pm; $6.50), a restored British fortification dating from
1839, there's little to do here except hang out by the lake. Built
during a border dispute with the Americans, the fort was part of a
series of schemes that strengthened the land link between the St
Lawrence and the Bay of Fundy, protecting the area's timber resources.
Abandoned in 1842, having seen no action, Ingall has been painstakingly
reconstructed, its high stockade surrounding a squat wooden barracks,
blockhouse and officers' quarters. Inside the officers' quarters are
enjoyable displays on the background to the fort's construction,
contemporaneous army life and local archeological finds. There's also a
section on Archie Belaney, aka Grey Owl , the British conservationist
turned native, who settled in the area in the 1920s . From Cabano, Hwy
232 follows the shore of the lake before snaking back to the St Lawrence
at Rimouski - or you can take the more direct Hwy 293 from the lake's
northern extremity to Trois-Pistoles .
There are several campsites along the shores of Lac Témiscouata, the
nearest to Cabano being the Témilac , 33 rue de la Plage, near the
junction of Highway 232 and the TCH (tel 854-7660; $14; mid-May to Sept).
For more comfortable accommodation , the campsite adjoins the
unpretentious Hébergement Témilac (same number; $80-100). Alternatively,
you could try the Motel Royal , 19 rue St-Louis (tel 854-2307; $40-60),
a decent and inexpensive place to stay. For food , Le Quai des Brumes ,
at 140 rue Commercial, is a cheerful place with a terrace; Auberge de la
Gare , 5 rue de la Gare, specializes in crepes and pasta and offers B&B
accommodation upstairs (tel 845-9315 or 1-888/463-4273; $40-60).
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