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CARLETON |
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Just to the west of New Richmond, Hwy 299 runs north along the banks
of the Cascapédia towards the Parc de la Gaspésie , while the coastal
Hwy 132 continues on to the popular bayside resort of CARLETON , where
the mountains of the interior return to dominate the landscape. Founded
in 1756 by Acadian refugees, Carleton is an unassuming little place that
stands back from the sea behind a broad lagoon, linked to the narrow
coastal strip by a couple of long causeways. The town has a bird
sanctuary - a favourite haunt of wading species like the sandpiper and
plover - and several accessible bathing beaches where you can rent
kayaks (tel 364-7802). But what makes the place special is the contrast
between the coastal flatlands and the backdrop of wooded hills that rise
up behind the town. At 582m, Mont Saint-Joseph is the highest of these
and is presided over by the Oratoire Notre Dame-du-Mont-Saint-Joseph , a
disappointing church that incorporates the walls of a stone chapel built
on the site in 1935. A three-kilometre maze of steep footpaths slip past
streams and waterfalls before they reach the summit. You can also take
the less adventurous option and drive up. You must pay ($4) to see the
splendid panoramic views over the bay and across to New Brunswick.
Carleton is a good place to stay overnight and, while you're here, the
hilly Miguasha Peninsula , some 20km to the west off Hwy 132, makes a
pleasant excursion. Famous for its fossils, this tiny peninsula is home
to the Parc de Miguasha , where the cream of the fossil crop is
displayed at the combined research centre and museum (daily: June to
early Sept 9am-6pm; Sept to mid-Oct 9am-5pm; free). Frequent and free
guided tours take in the museum, the research area and a walk along the
beach and cliffs. About 800m from the museum is the jetty for the little
car ferry (late June to early Sept hourly 7.30am-7.30pm; 20min; $12 one-way
for driver and car, $1 per additional passenger) that crosses over to
Dalhousie in New Brunswick, a short cut that avoids the tip of the Baie
des Chaleurs.
Carleton's many motels line the main street, boul Perron. The cheaper
choices include: Auberge la Visite Surprise , no. 527 (tel 364-6553 or
1-800/463-7740; $40-60); L'Abri , no. 360 (tel 364-7001 or
1-800/827-7001; $60-80); and Manoir Belle Plage , no. 474 (tel 364-3388
or 1-800/463-0780; $40-60). A B&B , Les Leblanc , is at no. 346 (tel
364-7601; $40-60). The town has a well-situated campsite , Camping
Carleton , on the causeway, Banc de Larocque (tel 364-3992; sites from
$19; mid-June to Aug).
Le Bleu Marine , 203 rte du Quai, offers affordable lunchtime menus
overlooking the beach, while more substantial seafood meals are
available at Restaurant le Héron , at no. 561 (where the bus stops), and
the expensive but superb La Maison Monti , at 840 boul Perron. If you're
heading off to the Parc de Miguasha, pack up a picnic lunch at the
bakery La Mie Véritable , 578 boul Perron.
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