The regional service and ex-forestry town of CRANBROOK , despite a
location that marks it out as a transport hub, is one of the most dismal
in the province, its dreariness hardly redeemed by the surrounding high
mountains. A strip of motels and marshalling yards dominates a downtown
area otherwise distinguished only by thrift shops and closing-down
sales. Local lifeblood, such as it is, flows from the motels, this being
an obvious place to eat, sleep and drive away from the next morning.
The only sight to speak of is the Canadian Museum of Rail Travel , a
smallish affair that centres on the restored carriages of an old trans-Canada
luxury train (July & Aug daily 8am-8pm; rest of the year 10am-6pm;
$6.95). The period buildings pushed by the infocentre , 2279 Cranbrook
St (year-round 9am-5pm; tel 426-5914 or 1-800/222-6174,
www.cranbrookchamber.com ), aren't interesting enough to justify the
trawl round the streets. The infocentre was burned down by animal-rights
activists in 1999 because of its stuffed-animal display, and not to be
outdone they have reopened on the same spot with a new Wildlife Museum (same
hours) filled with stuffed road-kills from the surrounding area.
You may have to stay in Cranbrook, as there's little in the way of
accommodation on the roads north and south; there are a dozen or more
motels that fit the bill. The top of the range in town is the Heritage
Inn at 803 Cranbrook (tel 489-4301 or 1-800/663-2708; $80-100), a large,
modern motel on the main road. Cheaper and more intimate is the Heritage
Estate Motel (tel 426-3862 or 1-800/670-1001; $40-60), near the southern
edge of town at 362 Van Horne St SW and therefore removed from some of
the bleaker corners. The same can be said of a nice B&B , the Singing
Pines , 5180 Kennedy Rd (tel 426-5959 or 1-800/863-4969; $80-100),
situated off Hwy 95A 3km north of town in a quiet location with mountain
views. The town's Mount Baker RV Park , at Baker Park on 14th Avenue and
1st Street (tel 1-877/501-2288; $18-24; April-Oct), is the closest
campsite , though it's a good deal less appealing than the Jimsmith
Provincial Park , 4km southwest of town, but which has no showers ($12;
May-Oct).
The strip offers plenty of cheap eating options: for something more
welcoming make for the ABC Family Restaurant at 1601 Cranbrook St N. The
Greyhound bus terminal (tel 426-3331) is hidden behind McDonald's
opposite the Mohawk petrol station. Bus services run east to Fernie,
Sparwood and southern Alberta (2 daily); west to Nelson, Castlegar and
Vancouver (3 daily); north to Kimberley, Radium, Banff and Calgary (1
daily); and south to Spokane in the US (1 daily).
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