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EDMUNDSTON |
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Lying at the confluence of the Saint John and Madawaska rivers, wood-pulping
EDMUNDSTON is the largest town in the north of New Brunswick, with a
population of nearly twelve thousand. It's a brash, modern place, where
a profusion of flashing neon signs proclaim the proximity of the USA,
which lies just over the biggest of the town's three bridges. Edmundston
is mainly French-speaking and, curiously, regards itself as the capital
of the enclave known as the Republic of Madawaska , the snout-shaped
tract of Canadian territory jutting out into the state of Maine. While
the idea of an independent state here is preposterous, the "Republic" is
more than a publicity stunt: it signifies the frustration of a people
over whom the British and Americans haggled for thirty years until 1842,
and who still feel ignored by Fredericton. Yet the town packages the
Republic frivolously, with Ruritanian touches such as a coat of arms, a
flag, honorary knights and a president (otherwise the mayor).
There's a seasonal tourist office (tel 737-6766) adjoining the municipal
museum just off the Trans-Canada (Exit 18) at the top of Boulevard
Hébert, which runs downtown. SMT buses pull in at 169 Victoria St, just
off Boulevard Hébert before the Fournier Bridge over the Madawaska River
into the town centre. For downtown accommodation , head for the standard-issue
comforts of the Howard Johnson Hotel , 100 Rice St (tel 739-7321 or
1-800/654-2000; $80-100). Another, much cheaper option is the simple
Hotel Praga , near the marina at 127 Victoria St (tel 735-5567; $40-60).
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